There’s been enough written about how integrated the tango is into Buenos Aires culture that it’s become an unavoidable travel cliché. Quite simply, when in Buenos Aires, tango’s rhythm is heard all round in constant replay. So you may as well accept the fact and see a tango show at its best.

Two venues impressed me: Madero Tango at Puerto Madera offers a dinner package that is dazzling in its athleticism, tango prowess and sheer glitter factor. This show wouldn’t be out of place at Caesar’s Palace in Las Vegas. The other is Rojo Tango at the very swish Faena Hotel located in BA’s trendiest waterfront redevelopment named simply, the Faena District. The Rojo Tango show was smaller, more intimate and oozed authenticity. I loved both shows so much that I booked my partner and I into a tango lesson at Madero Tango star Mora Godoy’s studio in central BA. We had an hour’s lesson, enough to convince me that I really should have started dancing the tango at age six. I felt so un-suave and un-coordinated that I marvelled anew at the incredible grace and physical perfection of professional dancers.

Of course if splashy tango is too much, you can always take in a coffee at one of the many cafes that line the La Boca waterfront and see a miniature tango show performed randomly. Usually it’s a young couple in from the provinces trying to make a few extra pesos. Their dancing isn’t truly professional but charming nonetheless for its authenticity and joie de vie.

Apart from tango, upwardly mobile Portenos are enormously fond of eating lots of meat. Smoking like chimneys is also common; non-smoking sections in restaurants are still works-in-progress. Their favourite weekend pastime appears to be browsing at local markets or during summer, escaping to Uruguay’s Punta del Este’s trendy beaches or a country estado up the Parana River.

Less cashed up Portenos stuck at home during the torrid summer months go on strike with alarming regularity so don’t be surprised if taxis suddenly disappear, metro trains stop running, baggage handlers walk off the job leaving mountains of luggage at all airports and the whole country seems to stop.

A landmark restaurant for feasting in old BA style is La Cabana restaurant, also in central BA. It’s a famous place; everyone knows it. I went so far as to take a barbecue class before dinner. I cooked nearly every bit of flesh it’s possible to slice from: a pig, a cow and a sheep. In Argentina most barbecue restaurants specialise in asado, more a social occasion than a simple dinner out. Be prepared to see enough flesh on a plate to feed a small army of carnivores. The specialised grill, known as the parrilla, used by keen Argentinian barbecue chefs is obligatory equipment. Sadly it’s not easily exported home, far too heavy. Fortunately, the cookbook given to me at the finish of my lesson still reminds me of the importance that meat has in both the country’s economic and social histories. I use the cookbook for inspiration when I’m listening to an Astor Piazzolla CD I bought at the Plaza Dorrego San Telmo flea market. How best to replicate the taste of Buenos Aires in my home kitchen remains a challenge. So far, I’ve not had much success getting the right amount of smokiness into my chops though my hips have begun moving like Carlos Gardel’s.

Argentinian wines have rightly gained global prominence. Famed for its Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon, these red wines of good quality are normally sold at prices ranging between USD$7 and USD$17 per bottle and are ubiquitous on restaurant lists and retail shops alike. Wines priced above USD$20 per bottle will typically result in a very memorable vinous experience. Torrontes, a white variety akin to Chenin Blanc or Verdelho in flavour is also commonly available; it has grown into the Argentinian white grape of choice. Of course wines sold in top restaurants will cost a bit more but quality of the glassware will at least be better.

Argentina’s top selling beer is Quilmes. It’s on tap at most cantinas and is a refreshing brew, particularly after a hot summer’s day spent wandering through the markets.

Like their Spanish cousins, Portenos dine late, normally after 9pm. After dinner the bars and clubs don’t begin throbbing until 2am. Tango sounds best late at night when love or pain is in the air.

BA is packed with hotels of the usual sort offered by such a huge metropolis, ranging from bargain basements (literally) to luxurious grand establishments. I stayed very happily at the boutique Park Hyatt-Palacio Duhau just a few steps away from the famous Alvear Palace. The Park Hyatt won me over with its generous and completely sound-proofed rooms, gigantic bathrooms and friendly helpful staff. We dined exceptionally well at its formal restaurant, one of the few in BA that offers a non-smoking section. A superb local wine list added pizzazz. The cheese room next door to the restaurant revealed a growing industry in the production of artisan cheeses.

Nearby is a Buenos Aires’ sacred site, La Recoleta Cemetery. Follow the crowds to Eva Peron’s grave. Many graves feature sculptures created by some of Argentina’s most illustrious sculptors, comprising one of the city’s most interesting outdoor art galleries. Most of Argentina’s past presidents and military figures are interred here. As are numerous famous poets, writers and artists.

I also liked the Palermo Soho All Suites Hotel in the sophisticated Soho Palermo neighbourhood. Finding a restaurant, café or boutique in this part of town is as easy as falling out the door of the hotel. Our two-bedroom apartment had a workable kitchen, two bathrooms and a balcony overlooking the passing parade below. I could have lived there.

Buenos Aires is a veritable shopper’s paradise. The devalued peso has made life tougher (yet again) for Argentinians but for travellers in pursuit of good value, this was a dream come true. European fashion labels are prevalent, leather goods are incredibly good value and yes the bargains on offer are numerous.

Naked Facts:

A few tips: Be wary of counterfeit currency. It’s rife. I used a global bank’s ATM and was surprised to discover counterfeit notes amongst the withdrawn amount. Be careful of pickpockets, particularly at tourist markets. Taxis regularly go on strike. Public transport is crowded but extensive and easy to use. Few people speak English. Spanish is the lingua franca. Vegetarians may find an extended stay challenging.

Argentina charges a USD$100 ‘reciprocity’ fee for entry into the country via its international airports and ferry terminals in BA. The fee is valid for one year and covers multiple entries. As of October 2012, the fee may be paid online before departure.

For reservations and enquiries, The Park-Hyatt Palacio Duhau can be contacted at: buenosaires.park@hyatt.com

Palermo Soho All Suites Hotel can be found at: www.sohoallsuites.com