Canberra’s surprisingly delectable delights compete for attention. Memorials, museums and politicians’ haunts get the lion’s share of the national capital’s attention. This is no longer a fair go…
Canberra: It has four distinct seasons, bushland and paddocks stretching in all directions with average altitude ranging between 600 metres and 900 metres. The variety of soils and slopes offers a challenge to winemakers. Happily the challenge has been met. There are over 140 vineyards around Canberra with 35 cellar doors open for wine fanciers. Many of the cellar doors also sell locally made olive oils, jams, preserves and condiments. It’s a complimentary arrangement that shows off the best products available.
Accommodation has broadened its base finally to include a few deluxe countrified guesthouses as well as a number of urban hotels that match any in the other capital cities. Cafes and restaurants are serving top-notch tucker with commensurate levels of table service. Old Canberra represented by the idée fixe of urban desert populated by even drier public servants mixing in with shady pollies has gradually shifted to one of a bushy oasis with great wines, superb restaurants and produce purveyors, though driving around Canberra’s Parliamentary Precinct mid-week after 10pm or on a weekend may still have a haunting affect on some (like me…where is everyone?) and some of those pollies are shadier than ever. As to the latter observation, la plus ca change…
For anyone who hasn’t been to Canberra in the last five years or so, I heartily recommend a visit.
Ben Chifley John Curtin, former PMs, statue in Parliament precinct.
Make a trip and help celebrate the capital city’s 100th birthday. Hard to believe isn’t it? Merely one hundred years ago, Canberra was basically a series of disconnected sheep paddocks.
When a political deal was made declaring the new city had to be at least 100 miles from Sydney but within the state of New South Wales, an arrangement aimed to settle the ongoing rivalry between Sydney and Melbourne, the former sheep station grew from a compromise between warring state’s factions into the Bush Capital we see now. An international competition to design the world’s newest capital city was announced. The race was on.
A lot can happen in one hundred years.
At the National Archives, the rarely seen original plans and drawings for the competition are on display. To see the genius of Walter Burley Griffin’s design coupled with Marion Mahony’s splendid draughtsmanship is a rare treat.
National Archives exterior.
The international design competition was launched in 1911. In 1912 it was decided that Walter Burley Griffin with his wife and business partner Marion Mahony had won the prize with their novel entry, which described the future city ensconced in bushy parkland blessed by sweeping vistas and gracious public spaces.
Clearly, they were not averse to using a round-about as a traffic calming strategy. Canberra is Australia’s round-about capital, a circle within a sphere within a circumference. Canberra’s only geographically straight streets extend from one grand public edifice to another: Parliament House, The Australian War Memorial, the Governor General’s house at Yarralumla (close to the Prime Minister’s residence, The Lodge) and the main road north from the downtown Civic precinct. The arrangement allows for many sweeping views. The remainder of Canberra’s ‘streetscapes’ is essentially a circular argument.
Walter Burley Griffin design layout for Canberra at National Archives.
Officially construction commenced 12 March 1913 with the laying of the foundation stone of the commencement column. The National Archives’ collection of Jack Mildenhall’s photographs help to illuminate how barren Canberra’s landscape once was.
The Burley-Griffin’s concept was quite different to others on the short list. French designer Donat-Alfred Agache’s design is like an antipodean version of Paris with lots of formal water gardens. Eliel Saarinen’s design resembles an Art-Deco stand-in for Helsinki. Australians, Walter Scott Griffiths, Robert Charles Coulter and Charles Caswell’s design is surprisingly industrial.
The National Archives is situated in Canberra’s former main Post Office building, interesting in itself. By all means, have a look at the competing designs and pick your own winner. Complimentary use of interpretive iPads is available to accompany the already well researched displays.
Looking towards the Australian War Memorial from the steps of the Old Parliament House.
The Old Parliament House is now the Museum of Australian Democracy at Old Parliament House. A marvellous museum packed with exhibits stretching back to the birth of democracy in Athens up to contemporary concerns such as Australia becoming a republic. The whole museum is very engaging with lots of interactive displays (vote for a Republic?) competing with the solemnity of the House of Representatives and the Senate chambers. The former Prime Minister’s office is open to the public as well. Bob Hawke was its last full time incumbent, not so very long ago.
The Old Parliament House rose gardens have recently been restored and are now open to the public. Nice spot for a picnic.
Old Parliament House rose gardens have been recently restored.
The new National Portrait Gallery, conveniently located next door to the National Gallery of Australia, is also quite marvellous. Stepping back into time, gazing at faces from the colonial era reveals a past many Australians often forget. Contemporary portraits are like looking at old friends and familiar faces. It’s the kind of museum where you may find yourself pointing at someone’s face you know, hanging on a wall for everyone else to see.
National Portrait Gallery.
Like most international capital cities, Canberra is blessed with an abundance of museums and galleries. I won’t list them all here but must make special mention of the National Museum of Australia and the Australian War Memorial. A visit to Canberra that doesn’t include stopping at both these excellent museums is culturally and intellectually bereft.
National Gallery exterior.
For a city designed like a huge garden space, Canberra is also blessed with superb public gardens foremost among them are the National Botanic Gardens and the National Arboretum.
On the shores of Lake Walter Burley Griffin the Carillon was given to Australia by the British government on Canberra’s 50th anniversary.
The National Capital Exhibition is also highly recommended for its exhibits devoted to local Indigenous culture and Canberra’s history before it grew into a modern city.
Both the High Court and Parliament House are open to the public. Parliamentary proceedings are open to visitors. Question time is 2pm when the House is sitting. (BYO vuvuzela?) Likewise the High Court is open to the public. Proceedings are accessible to visitors though tours must be booked in advance. Online is best. When the High Court is sitting, visitors are welcome to view the action from any one of the three courtrooms.
All that cultural and historical stimulation also requires sustenance of a more basic kind: food and drink.
I’ve done the hard yards and condensed the array of dining, wining and shopping choices to the following summary. It’s by no means a locked in and secure list. Instead it’s a subjective approach to what I’ve experienced and is certainly open-ended. All I can say is that this is a thriving region for hungry, thirsty people like me. Bring it on.
Naked Drinking:
Canberra’s wineries are more or less spread out in two different directions from the city centre, east to Bungendore and north to Murrumbateman with a few others closer to town and a few nestled into the slope bordering on the ever mysterious Lake George, though the Lake George wineries are usually included in maps that focus on Bungendore.
It’s best to divide your visits accordingly and try not to combine the two centres in one day. Spend at least one day in and around Bungendore and do the same for Murrumbateman. This will reduce driving time and allow for a relaxing lunch and shopping.
The Canberra District Wine Industry Association & Spirited Communications has produced a very good free map. Check www.visitcanberra.com.au
Be sure to check opening hours for all wineries. Some keep public holiday and weekends only visiting hours or require an appointment first.
Clonakilla Winery
Crisps Lane, Murrumbateman
(02) 6227 5877
Tim Kirk is one of Canberra’s gifted-with-the-grape geniuses. What he can do with Shiraz and Viognier verges on alchemy. Clonakilla slays them at the wine shows when it enters. Tim’s cellar door is charmingly rustic, much like the man himself. Like so much of Canberra’s terrain, the Clonakilla vineyard appears weathered, old and hunkered down. Shiraz loves it. The wines are pure cool climate, spicy and incredibly complex.
Helm Wines
Butts Road, Murrumbateman
(02) 6227 5953
Ken and Judith Helm are local heroes having owned and operated their eponymous winery since 1973, one of the oldest in the district. Ken makes a standout Riesling, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. The Riesling is ethereal, seductive and lifts itself from the glass like a ballerina on point, all grace and beauty. The cellar door, formerly the local schoolhouse, is a pure delight. Check out former school mistress Miss Minnie May Young’s photo near the door. She taught there from 1897 until 1904 and ran temperance classes where you now sample Helm’s wines. Further irony… she married an Armstrong who didn’t drink and later became former National Party leader Ian Armstrong’s great aunt.
Gallagher Wines
2770 Dog Trap Road, Murrumbateman
(02) 6227 0555
This charming winery has a typical cool climate range of Canberra-friendly grape varieties. Trophies on display usually mean that there’s good stuff to taste. There are plenty of awards and trophies adorning Gallagher’s wines but what entranced me most was that Mrs. Gallagher also makes what I’ve learned is Canberra’s only regional cheese, marinated labne, a soft cheese perfect for spreading over a slice of wood fired sourdough bread.
Shaw Vineyard Estate
34 Isabell Drive, Murrumbateman
(02) 6227 5827
At over 30 hectares, Shaw is one of Canberra’s largest as well as newest vineyards. It’s definitely worth a look to see what the newest kids on the block are doing. With so much area to work with, Shaw is doing an interesting range. This is a great opportunity to catch a rising star.
Pankhurst Wines
Old Woodgrove Road, Hall
(02) 6230 2592
Set in a stunning location overlooking the Brindabella Ranges stretching across to the southern horizon, this winery does a mean Chardonnay among other varieties. As it’s close to Hall, try stopping there to have a look at what was the local village before Canberra was built. Hall has retained its colonial roots and hosts a large produce and crafts market the first Sunday of each month except in January.
Mount Majura Vineyard
RMB 314 Majura Road, Majura
(02) 6262 3070
Majura is on the outskirts of Canberra at the foot of Mount Majura. The spanking new cellar door also houses an evolving contemporary art gallery space. Very funky. Winemaker Frank van der Loo is doing wonderful things with Majura’s Chardonnay, Riesling, Shiraz, Pinot Gris and Tempranillo. All five of these varieties are showing up splendid examples under Frank’s expert skills. The Dinny’s Blend, a Cabernet Franc dominant house blend is also a little ripper. The Tempranillo is certainly one of the best I’ve tasted made in Australia. Frank also makes a Riesling based Vino Cotto (cooked grape must) that is a gift to any enterprising cook. Majura conducts a walkabout ‘Gumboot Tour’ of the vineyards offering the visitor a rare opportunity to get close and personal with the grapes, the soil and the terroir.
Lerida Estate
Westering Federal Highway, Lake George
(02) 6295 6640 or weekends (02) 4848 0231
I’ve certainly enjoyed the wines here. Lerida bought neighbouring Madew Estate some years ago, acquiring top quality Chardonnay, Riesling and Pinot Gris vineyards in addition to its Shiraz, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Viognier. I particularly like the Merlot/Cabernet Franc blend, as close as we get to a Pomerol style wine in Australia. Lerida Estate has a lovely airy cellar door perched on the slope overlooking the vineyards and the distant and nearly always dry Lake George. Cafe Lerida is the winery’s excellent restaurant adjoining the tasting bar. It’s well worth combining a tasting visit with an eating visit. Certainly the wines taste even better when they’re paired so winningly with the food. Best of all, the cellar door and restaurant are open 10am to 5pm daily.
Lambert Vineyards and Café
810 Norton Road, Wamboin
(02) 6238 3866
Steve and Ruth Lambert established their winery in 1991. The café came along a little later and has proved to be a win-win combination. Steve’s wines are uniformly terrific, particularly his Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Shiraz and an easy on the palate Rose. The Lamberts have provided a needed lift to the Bungendore food scene. The views over the countryside and vineyards are sublimely peaceful.
Lark Hill Winery
521 Bungendore Road, Bungendore
(02) 6238 1393
Owner/winemaker family, Dave, Sue and Chris Carpenter comprise a biodynamic trio. This is the Canberra district’s highest vineyard; the scenery from 860 metres up is beautiful and wildlife abounds. The biodynamic pesticide free environment attracts the friendliest of furry and feathered neighbours–like the very large mob of roos when I visited. The cellar door is all old stone and atmosphere. The wines are dead set excellent, yields are at the extreme end of low and the vines suffer for their success. Benchmark Pinot Noir, Riesling and Chardonnay set a hard-to-follow standard for the Canberra wine community. Qantas has both Lark Hill Chardonnay and Pinot Noir on offer in its Business Class. Un-miss-able. If you’re feeling hungry, stay for lunch at their new-ish restaurant. With country cooking this good, Lark Hill wines show off even better.
Naked Eating:
Canberra’s food-fanatical coterie of devotees has developed into something quite interesting. I try to keep up with the best but it’s an ever-evolving scene. Here at least is my edited selection of some of the best.
Fyshwick Markets
Dalby and Mildura Streets, Fyshwick
Weekly Thursday to Sunday
This is Canberra’s main fresh food market open for retail as well as wholesale. Check out what the restaurateurs are buying. Talk to the purveyors to ascertain the best on offer. Check out The Mart (ask directions to which corner of the market it’s located in) for the Canberra deli to beat all other delis.
The Capital Region Farmers Market
Weekly every Saturday
Exhibition Park, Mitchell
A great selection of the region’s best produce–straight from paddock to plate.
Old Bus Depot Market
Wentworth Avenue, Kingston
Every Sunday from 10am until 4pm
All Australian made arts, crafts and farm grown products place this market in the special category. Talk to the growers. Meet the makers. Shop with pride.
Silo Bakery
36 Giles Street, Kingston
(02) 6260 6060
This café/bakery does the best bread in Canberra. It also offers some of the best lunch options anywhere. The walk-in cheese room is full of what can’t be bought elsewhere in town. Stock up now and don’t forget the fruit pastries
The Ginger Room—closed and awaiting a new proprietor.
Old Parliament House, King George Terrace, Parkes
(02) 6270 8262
This was once one of Canberra’s best restaurants. The Ginger Room stood out for me for its glimpse of Canberra’s past. The restaurant occupies one of the member’s dining rooms and after the room was stripped of layers of paint, smoke stain and dirt it revealed wonderfully painted wall panels of ginger flowers. The room now reeks with an undeniable style of its own. An adjoining cocktail bar is closed and awaiting a new proprietor, a sad end to a refreshed start. The cafe operating in the Museum of Australian Democracy (Old Parliament House) also acts as a retailer selling locally grown and made produce. Sadly, the food is ordinary and derivative, obviously sourced from a catering company off site.
Benchmark Wine Bar
65 Northbourne Avenue, Civic
(02) 6262 6522
This is Canberra’s best wine bar since 2003. The choice of wines is breathtaking. Opt for a flight to sample three related wines at the one time, pausing to compare and contrast the differences between them. Dining here is certainly wine focused but the food usually matches the pace set by the high standard of the array of wines for sale.
Aubergine
18 Barker St, Griffith
(02) 6260 8666
Canberra isn’t replete with fine dining establishments, slim pickings at the top end but Aubergine fills an empty space with flair. Though Aubergine is fairly casual, the quality of the cooking combined with an interesting wine list and good service makes this one of the capital’s most enticing restaurants.
Ottoman Cuisine
9 Broughton St, Barton
(02) 6273 6111
This Turkish inspired dining room has grown into a local institution. Spot the ‘pollie’ between courses of accomplished Turkish food is a fun game to play while waiting on the next plate of exquisite stuffed vegetables or wrapped meats.
Kingston Grind Café
Jardine Street, Green Square, Kingston
(02) 6295 8189
Arguably serving Canberra’s best coffee though I realise that making a claim like that invites a certain degree of competitive wrath. I like the Grind, thought it’s seen better days. Its position on the square in trendy Kingston with big windows looking out to the mundane YMCA second hand store across the road and its normally friendly service all appeal. Breakfast isn’t bad either.
Poachers Pantry Smokehouse Café and Wily Trout Vineyard
“Marakei”
Nanima Road, Hall
(02) 6230 2487
What a lovely place this is! The 1930s era weatherboard farm cottage graciously restored into a café restaurant and tasting room is unique. Certainly the smoked meats on sale and for tasting are like none elsewhere. Smoked chicken, quail, duck, lamb, pork, emu and kangaroo present more choice than even the most dedicated smoked meats fan can narrow down to a couple of favourites. The kangaroo prosciutto is so succulent it melts in the mouth. The smoked duck breast floats my boat any day. Try the Wily Trout wines while at Poachers, mix or match them with the smoked meats. Even better, eat at the café and see what the resident chefs do with this superb produce.
Grazing Restaurant and Café
The Royal Hotel
Cnr Cork and Harp Streets, Gundaroo
(02) 6236 8777
This is definitely one of Australia’s finest country restaurants. The food is home-hearty but refined. Flavours are distinctly delineated; nothing is too jumbled or confused. A country terrine arrives warm and sautéed rather than cold and congealed. The house made savoury tomato relish that accompanies it contrasts nicely against the unctuous fattiness in the terrine. A Guinness, beef and mushroom pie with mash would normally feed a football team. Here it more than feeds one without leaving a bulge around the midriff, its flavours being more important than mere bulk. A quince and vanilla custard tart with sour cream ice cream left me speechless with delight. The wine list comprises solely Canberra District wines. This is not only a Canberra treasure. It’s a national treasure.
Naked Tips:
The venues listed here are all very popular with the in crowd. Ring ahead to make a booking or be prepared to wait. The markets are at their best either very early or very late when the ‘specials’ are available for a bargain price.
Naked Accommodation:
Once the domain of soulless corporate motels, Canberra has emerged as a holiday destination offering the best of boutique hotel and apartment stays. Here’s a preferred short list.
To The Hotel Realm and a local plastic surgeon–on a public funded road sign?
Hyatt Hotel Canberra
Commonwealth Avenue, Yarralumla
(02) 6270 1234
Yeah, I know, it’s the only real 5-star place in town and at times it can be soulless and corporate–I bite my tongue–but the hotel has history. This was the Liberal party’s home away from home. With a bit of imagination, it’s possible to see the ghosts of John Gorton or ‘Pig Iron’ Bob Menzies himself leaning against a wall in the lobby. Oh so tastefully restored and dignified, lots of room for functions and exhibitions, the Hyatt sometimes appears over-gentrified but where else in Canberra can you get 24-hours room service and a taxi when you need one? Avoid the rooms overlooking the back car park. The noise levels are often intrusive.
The Hotel Kurrajong
National Circuit, Barton
(02) 6234 4444
The Kurrajong has grown on me. The hotel shares the Australian International Hotel School attached to it and occasionally the student help seems more ‘student’ than polished professional but that’s part of its charm. Like the Canberra, the Kurrajong is one of Canberra’s original great hotels but this was the Labor party’s hangout. Ben Chifley stayed, lived, worked and eventually died here and his room is now something of a shrine. The other rooms have been updated and refurbished but haven’t lost their sense of history. There’s plenty of soul and in a building with a truly important past too. Don’t miss having a drink or meal on the verandah in the courtyard garden. New managers were announced recently. The hotel will soon become part of the Travelodge chain. Hopefully this large hotel group won’t ruin the place.
Country Guesthouse Schonegg
381 Hillview Drive, Murrumbateman
(02) 6227 0344
A rare gem, The Schonegg has six lovely suites; it’s small and exclusive. Owner operators Richard and Evelyn Everson have a wealth of combined experience and talent in the hospitality game. It certainly shows in their seemingly effortless ability to make the guest seem very welcome and looked after. Richard is a chef of outstanding talent. Dinners and breakfasts are included in the overall tariff. Don’t miss them under any circumstance. Evelyn is a dab hand with pastries and cakes and as the major-domo she rules with utter grace and warmth.
The Realm Precinct
18 National Circuit, Barton
(02) 6163 1800
Conveniently located in the Parliamentary Precinct, this cool and clean hotel claims 5-star status.
During a recent visit, I was pleasantly surprised, mostly by the professionalism of its staff members, less so by the quality of the catering. I’m sick to death of tired buffet breakfasts in Australian hotels.
If I see another large bowl of Bircher muesli that looks like plasterer’s putty and a platter of very unripe watermelon, muskmelon, rockmelon and pineapple slices posing as ‘fresh fruit’ I’ll yell very loudly. Quantities of scrambled and poached eggs congealing in metal tins sitting in a warm water bath are an abomination. The only good use for a bain-marie in these days of intelligent cooking is emptied out and filled with dirt to be used as a garden planter. The packaged juices dispensed from large urns with spigots and a toasting machine that takes forever to toast a stale slice of bread were equally unappealing. Coffee out of a ‘use-it-yourself’ espresso machine stocked with very ordinary coffee beans added more insult to injury. All this for an extra $25 per person? I should have gone to the Silo Bakery instead.
Rooms on the executive level are spacious and moderately well-appointed. We could have used a full length mirror and better bathroom lighting, but these are minor quibbles.
When or if The Realm sorts out its breakfast service, I’d stay there again.
Naked Tips:
Visit the Visitor’s Centres in Canberra or in Yass for more recommendations regarding accommodation. There are numerous B & B guesthouses dotted all around Canberra’s countryside, some slick and professional, some too twee for words. For longer stays, Canberra has many very good serviced apartments, particularly around Kingston, Griffith, Barton and Yarralumla.
Best time to visit: Anytime really. Canberra has become something of an events and festivals city so take care and book well ahead if something really big is on. Four seasons mean four distinct average temperature ranges. Spring and Autumn are perfect.
Most under-rated aspect: The wines, the restaurants and the surrounding countryside. Get away from the city roundabouts!
Most over-rated aspects: The Summernats rev-heads car crash festival in January is when people who like to wine and dine give Canberra a big miss.
Prepare yourself for: Biting cold in winter and damned annoying blowflies in summer.
Watch out for: Time. You’ll need more of it than you may anticipate for having a really good look around.
Best value: Some Canberra wineries are among Australia’s best and they represent incredible value for the serious shopper.